禹州十三碗.

十三碗美食已有数百年历史,具有深厚的乡土文化底蕴,折射出乡村亲朋邻里间浓郁质朴的亲情和独特的礼仪。
很早以前,十三碗就成为禹州西部乡民取亲、嫁女、吃面条等重大庆典宴席必备之“佳肴”。当地人无论贫富,喜庆宴席上十三碗的花色是不可缺少的。家底不丰者, 所上十三碗往往以焖子打底,汤水较多,被戏称为“稀汤寡水”,家境殷实者则顶格走满十三碗,以彰显“大手、豪华”。
那么,为什么要上十三碗呢?原来,“13”这个数字蕴含着“一生”的意思,也就是说不管娶亲嫁女还是生小孩,大家都希望新人或孩子一生平安、幸福。  
十三碗主料为大肉、豆腐,辅料是焖子、粉条。农家往往在取亲、嫁女、吃面条的喜庆之日,宰杀一头自家圈养经年的肥猪,用自家豆子磨上一筐豆腐,配以禹州西部山坡生长的优质红薯粉加工的粉条,请邻近闻名的三、五乡厨,精心料理、调制,就这样经历代乡厨刻意琢磨,传承发展,终成就十三碗一方特色。
十三碗上菜顺序有着“严格”的规矩。民间有句口头禅叫:头碗“鸡”、二碗“鱼”、三碗上的“大肉皮”。由于“鸡”、“鱼”蕴含着“吉祥”、“有余”的意思,因此,农家“盛宴”是以鸡鱼为标志的,而早年,鸡、鱼并不丰足,乡厨便巧生智慧,借猪排生里脊,取其谐音以“脊”代鸡,制成头碗“鸡”。二碗鱼也是“假鱼”。乡厨用豆腐掺玉米面做成小鱼形状,再细加制作,虽非真鱼却味道鲜美。三碗上的“大肉皮”。是取上好的前肘,煮六成熟、切块、过油、焖子打底上笼蒸制后冲汤而成。第四碗上蒜菜。蒜菜、蒜菜那就算正式上菜啦,伴着蒜菜上桌正宗够味的做法是,宴席的主事者当院响亮地喝一声“上馍啦”,陪客者就每人提一竹篮馒头,挨桌分送。上甜米饭和山楂汤这二道菜前,传菜者会用托盘送上一碗凉水,这是菜由咸变甜怕串味,让客人用来涮汤勺的,若是没见过“世面”者舀了喝下,是会被人笑掉牙的。
借十三碗衍生出乡间质朴的礼仪也是小有意思的。十三碗的头道鸡上桌伊始,就是郑重规范用餐礼仪的开端。待“鸡”被端上桌面,主客方的长者会当即离席到操作间给厨子敬酒封红包,以表谢意。如有不经意忘掉此规矩者会被人窃笑为:“不知礼儿”。厨子对“不知礼儿”者在后续上菜中,闹些小小的恶作剧,要么菜中不放盐,要么咸得成了盐丁,让人哭笑不得。十三碗中的丸子汤为主客人辞菜标志符,当丸子汤上桌后,主客方便辞让道:“大家都吃好啦,不用再上菜啦”,这样方显主客的修养和老道。而陪客者则应答曰“菜还多着呢”。在主客的“坚辞”下,端上最后一道菜——鸡蛋汤。
热闹声中喜宴圆满结束,主人这时开始忙着道谢、递烟、送客,满院的礼让声、嬉笑声此起彼伏、不绝于耳……


今天在许昌吃了其中的三碗,刚才兴致来了BAIDU了一下.分享一下.

翻译成E文. [music]
13 bowls of food has a long history and has a solid foundation of the local culture. reflects the strong rural character of their relatives and friends among the neighborhood's unique rituals. A long time ago, the villagers take 13 bowls have become pro-western Yuzhou, son or daughter, declined to eat noodles and other major celebrations essential "cuisine." Local people, rich or poor, a jubilant celebration on the 13th Flower Bowl is indispensable. HSBC is not the bottom line, which often last 13 bowl Simmer son grounding, more soups, was jokingly called "rare Tang finds little water." take-off families who were aged 13 and the highest bowl to highlight "hands luxury." Then, why on the 13 bowl? In fact, "13" contains a number of "life" mean to say whether son or daughter get married or have children. We all hope that the new or young children safe, happy. 13 main ingredient for the big bowl of meat, bean curd, excipients is a little son, starch noodles. Farmers often go to the pro, son or daughter to eat noodles moment, the pigs slaughtered by the head of their own captive. Mill use their own beans on missing bean mixture Yuzhou western slopes of the growth of high-quality sweet potato starch noodles powder processing. Please adjacent to the famous three to five townships kitchen, carefully managed, modulation, it is so experienced behalf of rural kitchen deliberately enriched memory, finally achieved one of 13 bowl characteristics. 13 bowl order to serve have "strict" rules. There is an old favorite : the first non-bowl called "chicken", a bowl of "fish" three bowls of the "pork skin." Because the "chicken" and "fish" contains "good luck" and "surplus" means, therefore, farm "Feast" is the hallmark of the chicken fish, and early, chicken, fish is not plentiful, the township will Qiao kitchen wisdom. Health through pork loin absorb leaked to the "ridge" on behalf of chicken first into a bowl of "chicken." Second is the fish bowl "at the fish." Rural cooking bean cornmeal doped caused fish shape, and then detail the production, though not really taste the fish is cooked. Three bowls of the "pork skin." He is good on the elbow before, six mature cook, serve, the oil, a little son Shanglongzheng grounding system away from soup. 4 bowls garlic dishes. Garlic vegetables, garlic dishes to serve, take it even if official, accompanied by garlic dishes amid the fragrant : the table is authentic. Thus the lack of drinking when the center was loudly saying "on bun," said the governor, who either put a drawing on each box, pay tables distributed. This sweet rice soup and Hawthorn two dishes, traditional vegetables into a bowl of cold water which will pallet, which is a change from sweet dishes afraid Chuanwei, allow patrons to rinse Tang Biao, if not seen "the light of day before" to scoop a drink, they should be the people Xiaodiaoya. 13 bowls produced by the ritual is small rustic countryside interesting. Road beginning of the first bowl of chicken table 13 is the beginning of a solemn ritual standardized meal. Question of "chicken" was placed on the table, the guest of honor will immediately leave the elderly to operate between toast to the chef closed envelopes to express his appreciation. For inadvertently forgotten this rule will be laughing : "I do not know the ceremony abuse." Cook on the "unknown ceremony abuse" in the follow-up to serve, trouble some minor prank or not positioning vegetables. have become either a salt D, did not know whether to laugh or cry. 13 bowls of meatball soup dishes signs at the main guests speech, meatball soup table, the guest of honor : convenience Cirang "Everyone here is full of gold, no longer serve," said that the objective of significant accomplishments, and Road. And who should be the answer either, "Choi also died." In the subjective "strong speech", the end of the last dish -- egg soup. Amid the excitement successful conclusion of the wedding, the owner started the busy time and our site, to see the guests out, the full House courteous voice, ridiculed the afternoon. ears .
© 发表时间:2006年12月07日 21:50:49,本页面被刷新了4422次。
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